I am currently reading your book, Chasing Waves, and it has really struck a chord within me. Not one to usually email favorite bands or authors, I feel a sense of urgency to just let you know what a relief (and craze) your book has brought me. Learning to surf on the Oregon coast (in early April of this year), I understand the frigid 40-50 degree days, but unable to keep yourself out of the water. All summer I spent searching myself up and down Oregon for the best areas. Thank you for you transparent honesty and sense of adventure!
I just finished reading your book-Amazing! I couldn’t put it down. I was at work when your friend dropped off a copy at the shop (I’m an instructor at Surf Sister). I took my very first lesson from Jenny about 10 years ago. My life changed after that.
Can’t wait to read the next one!
Hope to share some waves with you in Tofino sometime:)
I just finished your book Chasing Waves. I grew up on Bainbridge Island, and my whole life my dad would tell me stories about when he surfed. I never got the chance while I lived in Washington. Recently I moved to Los Angeles and wasted no time in getting to the beach. I have been making surfing a priority now for a little over a year.
It was great to read your book because I could relate. Thanx so much for the good read.
Dylan Roadie Kerbrat
I enjoyed your book. 🙂 Reviewed it on my site here.
I was going to start this e-mail by telling you that your book inspired me to get down to the beach this past week-end and get in the water! After I finished you book I needed to get to the beach. ust wanted to let you know I really enjoyed Chasing Waves…me and my 9′ Weber Performer really related to some of your stories even though I’m a guy and a little older ha! Liked reading about Costa Rica…glad you liked Guiones…. I’ve been there a few times. Thanks again great book!….hope you have some more on the way!…… if you have a mailing list please put me on it …would like to know when your next book is released and look forward to reading it….take care.
As I write you this note, I’m wiping away tears as I’ve just finished your amazing book (too short, btw..I wanted it to never end!). It’s so incredible to read someone else’s account of exactly how I feel about surfing! No one can really understand unless they’re in it…my friends are great at humoring me and are very supportive, but they don’t get it…especially when I’m suiting up to go into the cold Atlantic here in Lawrencetown, Nova Scotia! They think I’m nuts, and I suppose I am…but it’s too late now.
I only started surfing back in August of last year, so am still pretty new to it. I could really relate to all that fear…and am glad to hear it eventually passes (for the most part!). No matter…I”l be doing this until I die now, I’m sure of it.
Thank you for writing such an eloquent, heartfelt, REALISTIC account of what we all go through when we’re learning, and getting taken over by the ‘stoke’.
I look forward to reading more from you! A sequel, please! 😉
Take care and pura vida!
I read your book last summer while on vacation in Baja at the Cabo Surf Hotel–perfect! I have lent it to my reader/surfer friends, and everyone finds it both exciting and inspiring. Thanks for writing it!
Happy waves to you : )
Chasing Waves isn’t just about surfing. Like every good book it’s a story of exploration, courage, self-discovery, passion, joy and love. Congratulations. I look forward to your next book.
My wife heard a radio interview with you and purchased ‘Chasing Waves.’ We really enjoyed the spirit of adventure you captured in your narrative, as well as your all-out passion for surf. As fellow native northwesterners who live 1-2 hours from the nearest super fickle break we can relate on a number of levels to your hunger for the perfect wave-as well as the warm water….I’ve been getting out maybe once a month for the last 16 years, and have often dreamt about taking full on surf vacations such as those you described in the book……You story is quite inspiring….
Maybe we’ll catch up with ‘team creep’ in the straits someday….
Thoroughly enjoyed reading your book – much insight into your wonderful life.
Steve & Susan